Return to Bodhgaya: Sujata's Tale
En route to Birgunj. A sunrise through smoke and smog. It was a long stretch to Bodhgaya. My bus left Kathmandu an hour late, expected and no big deal and we reached the border at Birgunj around seven-thirty Friday morning. Since I overstayed my visa in Nepal, I had to pay a 4000 rupee ($40 US) fine. Passport stamped and I was on my next bus to Patna. We reached Patna around 4:30 or 5 and I considered taking the train to Gaya, the later built city, sister to Bodhgaya. Gaya's a kind of dirty hole but Patna's worse. In any case, which city is the bigger shit-hole is moot since I wasn't staying in either one. I was impatient and decided to hire a taxi to Bodhgaya to go straight to the guest house. My patience returned and the ride was about five hours. A substantial part- forty kilometers out of 115 - was spent in unmoving traffic owing to an accident. Maybe two hours altogether spent dozing, chatting with the driver and in general, reflecting on the trek I'd...