Architecture, Geography, Hagiography: the Mythic Terrain: Boudha Re-visited

There is so much that is "shrouded in mystery" in various parts of the world. I find the Eurocentric Enlightenment approach is great for clarity and historicity. What we call "myth" or "legend", however, may point to deeper truths and present us with the still-living, active dimensions of a building, a space, a place, or a work.

Was Boudhanath Stupa originally built by Songtsen Gampo? Probably not likely since there may be some evidence predating him. Some say the original structure was built by King Shivadeva who reigned in the late sixth/early seventh centuries. Others contend King Manadeva built it (or it was built during his time, roughly 464 - 505 CE).

Others hold that Shakyamuni himself prostrated toward a structure that predated those kings on this site and when his disciples asked why - since he never prostrated before manmade structures - he replied that this would be the body of a greater figure who would follow him, Padmasambhava, whose presence looms larger over the Kathmandu Valley and indeed, all of Nepal.

We do know that there a couple of facts we can be sure of. The original structure was wrecked by the Moghuls in the fourteenth century and the current stupa belongs to that period.

Does the stupa contain bones of Shakyamuni? Relics of Mahakasyapa? So some say. Does it matter?

There's the catalog of details that are repeated in every guidebook and probably by every guide: 147 niches with prayer wheels, 108 images of Amitabha spread throughout, stupas are developments of burial mounds, Boudha is 100 meters in diameter, 40 meters in height.

So what? What do these all mean?

Here. A quick guide to what the stupa elements represent:

The plinth is the earth; the kumbha (dome) is water; the harmika (the square tower) is fire; the spire is air; and the umbrella on top is the void/shunyata or perhaps space.

All of this is superficial. When you are walking around the stupa, you are often in the presence of the devout and your irony may have to sit this one out. Entering the first level and passing through the garden areas and coming across the random small pillar with a mani on it or an array of bodhisattvas takes you deeper into the place and the meaning. You will come across devotees prostrating over and over again before the stupa for hours at a time.




If you ascend to the roof, the base of the stupa proper if you will, you'll find prayer flags abounding and smaller stupas at different points of the 16 or so corner junctures. As you look toward the main stupa rising above the circular round of hotels, restaurants, and shops, you feel that you've risen above the mundanity of samsaric activity.

The khor-wa continues. Below, the round of the faithful working their way through the rounds of cyclic existence continues. Just so, as you (and others) do the same at a higher level, perhaps you are living a metaphor for treading the bodhisattva path. Perhaps, even though it is at a higher level, it's still a reminder that one is traveling through cyclic existence.

The thirteen levels of the spire are said to represent the 13 levels to enlightenment (I'm assuming this is the Nyingma model; the four regular levels plus the nine yanas of Nyingmapa doxography). Again, it's not the dictionary meaning you encounter, it's the aspirational or the transformative activity that obtains.

Maybe you spend a few minutes. Maybe a few hours, but eventually, you step down and back into the khor-wa. You leave the procession, turn and raise your hands with palms joined toward the stupa. Turn again and begin the walk back home.

You left the procession but the khor-wa continues.

The related images are found the Gallery.Scroll down to "Boudha Re-visited"; also, to launch a slideshow, just select any image and the Blogspot viewer will launch.