Introduction to Varanasi: the first week
I landed in Varanasi in something of a foul mood, unusual for me; but honestly, I really wasn't ready to leave Kathmandu. I'll be back soon enough, but the difference between India and Nepal is more than one might think. Kathmandu might be noisy and dusty, but Varanasi is noisier by a factor of ten and filthier, in terms of cow (and human) shit and piss. It was charming, almost, the first tme I was here (and cooler, it was in winter time); the city is actually quite beautiful and thriving and strolling along the Ganges is as spiritually invigorating as sitting in a temple. But I was in a crapulent mood made more so when the guest house I'd checked into put me in another The room at Yes Please. guest house. Fine. I'm ready for changes at the last minute, but a room with no windows, no towel, no toilet paper, no soap didn't improve my mood. After I got that sorted out, I took a non-soaped shower (they had towel and TP) and I passed into a deep sleep under ...